Hello, dear readers!
So it's time for active spring work on the site. Most gardeners are already growing seedlings of tomatoes of different varieties in order to feast on the summer with juicy, personally grown fruits, make all sorts of salads from them, salt them, preserve and cook tasty and healthy tomato juice.
One of the main enemies of planting tomatoes is a fungal disease late blight caused by spores that live in the soil. Let's talk about how prevention should be carried out, as well as treatment of late blight of tomatoes Location on.
At first, brown spots appear on the leaves and stalks of the plants, and then they move onto the fruits and roots of the bushes. In dry weather, the plants simply break, in rainy - they rot. In any case, the harvest disappears almost completely. Phytophthora is especially dangerous in rainy summer, because the disease develops under certain conditions.
Spores of fungi initially do not show themselves at all, but at the same time they can be activated at any of the stages of tomato vegetation. Most often, the disease begins to progress under adverse weather conditions: night temperatures drop below 12 ° C, prolonged rains, high humidity, lack of sufficient sunlight (which often happens when creating beds in shaded places). In such conditions, the fungus multiplies rapidly, rapidly destroying the tops and fruits.
The most effective are preventive methods of controlling the blight, which include:
- the right choice of a site for planting tomatoes - a well-warmed sunny place,
- competent crop rotation - tomatoes should be planted every year at a new place, their predecessor should not be potatoes and other cultures of the family of solanaceous plants (eggplant, tobacco, vegetable and chilli),
- careful cleaning and destruction in the fall of fallen leaves and vegetable residues (rotten fruits and tops),
- disinfection of planting material - seeds are soaked for 20 minutes in a low-boron solution of potassium permanganate or hydrogen peroxide is used for this,
- disinfection of the soil in the garden - 10 days before the proposed planting of the seedlings, the garden under the tomatoes is shed with a watering can with a weak solution of potassium permanganate,
- when growing tomatoes in the greenhouse - regular airing and prevention of high humidity in it,
- planting early ripening varieties of tomatoes - they manage to ripen before the beginning of the August rains and significant drops in night temperature,
- thinning of bushes and removal of lower leaves,
- a garter of bushes to prevent contact of leaves and fruits with a ground,
- use of green manures with insecticidal properties, for example, mustard, as a precursor of tomatoes - they are planted in the fall, and then the greens are used as a mulching material,
- regular prevention phytophthora - should not wait until the thunder clap, and regularly handle planting drugs against fungi or solutions based on natural remedies.
The first processing of tomato planting is carried out no later than 14 days after transplanting. It does not matter where you planted tomatoes, in the greenhouse or in the open ground. Following this, the spraying is repeated throughout the vegetative season with a frequency of once every 10-15 days. If you are using chemicals to combat blight, the spraying of the beds should be stopped 3 weeks before the expected term of ripening and harvesting of the fruits, in order to prevent the accumulation of toxic compounds in them.
Folk remedies for the prevention and treatment of late blight tomatoes
1. Watering the beds with slab potassium permanganate solution - once in 10-12 days.
2. Kefir or whole milk (1 l) is diluted with 9 l of water and 25 drops of iodine tincture are added. The composition is used for spraying the bushes.
3. Processing infusion of mullein in early and mid-June strengthens the immunity of plants, increasing their ability to resist infection, and is also an excellent top-dressing - 0.5 kg of fresh manure is diluted in 12 liters of water at room temperature. This solution is useful to spray not only the bushes of tomatoes, but also potato tops, as well as peppers and eggplants.
4. It is recommended to dust the kiln or wood sifted ash once every 5-6 days. The event is held early in the morning when there is dew. Fly ash should pollinate foliage, soil, and when grown in a greenhouse - its walls.
Treatment of tomato phytophthora
1. Dissolve a glass of thick lime and a tablespoon of blue crystals of copper sulphate (Bordeaux mixture) in a standard bucket of water, mix thoroughly and process the tomato bushes in the evening, after removing all the damaged leaves.
2. On a bucket of water add 50 grams of grated soap (you can replace the liquid) and the same soda ash. The composition is poured into a spray bottle and spray them with tomato bushes.
3. In a bucket of hot water, add 1-1.5 grams of potassium permanganate powder and two glasses of garlic cloves crushed in a blender into a mush, stir, strain and use for processing tomato beds. Biologically active components of garlic, in particular, phytoncides, have a powerful antifungal effect.
4. An aqueous solution of calcium chloride (1%) is used in case of a massive lesion of late blight tomato plantings. In the pharmacy, you can purchase a 10% solution of calcium chloride, packaged in 0.2 l bottles. For the preparation of the therapeutic composition of the contents of one bottle is added to 2 liters of water. Processing composition subject fruits.
[stextbox id = 'custom'] I recommend reading the article "How to deal with top rot on tomatoes" [/ stextbox]
Prevention and Mandatory treatment of late blight of tomatoes - One of the important stages in the struggle for the harvest. Using the above folk remedies, you can create a powerful defense against fungal infections of garden crops. See you!
- How to accelerate the ripening of tomatoes in the open fieldHello, dear friends! On how to accelerate the ripening of tomatoes in the open field, I will discuss in this article. During the warm season, not all fruits of tomatoes have time to ripen. A number of simplest events for.
- Care of planting tomatoesCare for tomato plant Greetings, friends! Every gardener seeks to obtain abundant crops of cultivated plants. A decent crop of tomatoes is a true reward for the workers of the dacha for their constant care about.
- Tomatoes root rotHello, dear friends! The root rot disease of tomatoes is manifested by the withering of plants, the rotting of their root collar. When pulling out a diseased plant from the soil, one can see dark brownish, brownish roots. Causative agent of root rot.
Description and photos: special signs
Initially, the disease manifests itself on the leaves in the form of brown spots with a whitish bloom. In dry weather, the spots dry out, and in wet weather they rot. Further, the disease progresses, affects the tops and fruits. At the beginning of the fruit dark spots appear, dense to the touch. Then rot forms in these places.
The disease is actively spreading in the second half of summer, when the night temperature differs significantly from the daytime, and in the morning dew and fog fall.
Pathogens and carriers of infection
Late blight - a disease transmitted by the fungal phytophthora fungus. Until recently, the main carrier of phytophthora were infected tubers and seeds, on which the mycelium hibernates. From the infected planting material grows a diseased plant, which becomes a carrier of malicious spores. From it the zoosporangia is washed off into the soil and spread by the wind. In dry and hot weather, he dies. But once the temperature drops to 15 ° C, it starts to rain and fog settles, the zoosporangia will immediately sprout 6-8 spores. And those, together with moisture, through the stomata get into the leaf, germinate with a sprout tube and infect the plant.
The situation is complicated by the fact that recently the disease has mutated and now a species of phytophtora has appeared, which is capable of overwintering itself in the soil in the form of oospores, and infect planted crops in the spring.
In order to prevent the spread of phytophthora in the area, you need to start with preplant processing and rejection of potato tubers. For this drug is suitable Maxim. The solution is prepared from 7.5 ml of the preparation and 100 ml of water. This solution, immediately before planting, is sprayed with tubers laid in one layer.
If last season at the site were plants infected with blight, then it is desirable to carry out soil disinfection. It is sprayed with a three-percent solution of copper sulphate and dredged. For the same purpose, you can use the fungicide Ordan, Nitrafen.
But even if you comply with all security measures, no one is immune from the trouble of the “arrived” from the neighboring site. Therefore, in the case of late blight, it is better not to wait for the first signs of the disease, but to carry out preventive spraying. Moreover, biological fungicides have now appeared that effectively suppress or destroy disease-causing fungi and do not cause harm to human health. Best of all, Fitosporin, Trichodermin and Alirin recommended themselves.
The first prophylactic treatment is carried out as soon as the potato has sprouted. Then process every 10-14 days. It is necessary to spray all crops prone to phytophthora.
Processing with biological preparations should be carried out on an overcast day or at sunset. Since the bacterium hay wand (which will fight with our enemy) dies under the influence of sunlight.
Prepare the tool yourself
It has been observed that the phytophthora is “afraid” of copper, therefore, as a preventive measure or in case of illness in the early stages, it is possible to spray a Bordeaux mixture or a copper-soap emulsion. How to make a Bosdian mix, read here.
A copper-soap emulsion is prepared by dissolving 2 g of copper vitriol and 200 g of soap in 10 liters of water.
The last treatment with copper-containing preparations is carried out not later than 8 days before harvesting.
Fight with chemicals
If there is no time or desire to take on a sprayer every two weeks, then it will be necessary to carry out the treatment with chemicals. They are able to accumulate in the tissues of the plant and protect it over a long period of time. Manufacturers claim that to protect solanaceous enough three treatments per season.
The first treatment is carried out in the phase of budding, the second - during flowering. The third time, potatoes are sprayed 20 days before harvest. If there are no signs of late blight on the potato, the third time, tomatoes and peppers can not be sprayed.
Using chemicals, it is important to remember that after processing the fruit can not be eaten 14-20 days.
The following drugs are considered effective in the fight against late blight:
Choosing among chemical agents, it is worth acquiring those that have contact and systemic effects on the fungus. But since phytophthora quickly adapts to poisons, drugs will have to be changed all the time. It’s not for nothing that the chemical industry works!
How to reduce the chances of the disease
It would not be superfluous to recall that, first of all, weakened plants suffer from various diseases, which do not receive enough nutrition, moisture, or compete with other cultures.
Therefore, in the autumn, when digging for the beds, it is necessary to add phosphate and potash fertilizers. These elements increase the protective functions of plants. And excess nitrogen, on the contrary, can provoke the development of pathogens.
During active growth, tomatoes can be sprayed with potassium humate. Kefir spraying (1 liter of fermented kefir for 10 liters of water) will help increase plant immunity.
Well, in order to prevent diseases from developing, it is possible to carry out prophylactic spraying with infusion of garlic or a solution of milk and iodine. After all, the bactericidal effect of iodine and garlic has been known since ancient times.
"Garlic Potion" is prepared as follows:
- chopped 400 g of garlic,
- pour 10 liters of water and allow to infuse for two days,
- add 2 g of potassium permanganate.
The first time spraying is carried out in the phase of budding, and the second time - after 10 days.
For the second solution, add 1 l to 10 liters of water. milk and 20 drops of iodine.
How not to lose in the fight for the harvest
To minimize the likelihood of phytophthora spreading in their area, it is necessary to create for it “intolerable conditions”:
- Phytophthora loves plants covered with dew and raindrops. So, we will plant seedlings under a canopy or in a greenhouse.
- The fungus feels well among the lush undergrowth, as there is no sunlight. Exit - plant bushes at a great distance from each other.
- Spores germinate faster on old leaves. The solution is to pick off all the lower leaves and regularly pinch.
- Late blight develops actively in the second half of summer. We need to look for early varieties in order to have time to harvest before the arrival of the "enemy".
- And of course one should not forget that the phytophtora lives in infected tubers and leaves. Therefore, crop residues after harvest must be burned.
In no case should infected potatoes be planted on the plot!
If phytophtora won
If the moment is missed and the phytophtora actively “devours” the crop, the only way out is to collect the surviving fruits in a green form and let them reach the house. Scientists say that fruits damaged by blight are not dangerous to humans, and they can be eaten.
But for canning such tomatoes are not suitable. A spoiled fruit can be a source of growth of bacteria and microorganisms in the jar.
Also from tomatoes infected with blight, you can not collect seeds. Although according to the results of the study, the spores of phytophthora die during heat treatment at a temperature of 50-55 ° C. But who knows what other surprises nature will bring us.
Folk methods of struggle with late blight
There are many chemical drugs to combat late blight, but the virus quickly adapts to them. Therefore, processing tomatoes according to the instructions of the expected result can not be obtained.
Infected with late blight tomato leaves
There are folk methods that, without chemicals and nitrates, will help stop blight and harvest a good crop of tomatoes.
The fungus causing late blight is sensitive to phytoncids produced by garlic. His controversy during processing perish.
For the preparation of this infusion will need the following components:
- 2 g of potassium permanganate,
- 1.5 cups chopped garlic cloves,
- 10 liters of water.
We insist all this during the day, filter and process in three periods in the same way as furatsilinom.
This method is less effective and is the prevention of diseases with regular treatment. Saline solution creates a protective barrier against infections, so it is necessary to carry out the treatment only on healthy bushes.
For cooking you will need 100 grams of salt per liter of water. On already infected tomatoes, the remedy is ineffective, but it will cover the tomatoes with a film, and stop the development of the disease on them.
What medications to use for late blight
In addition to traditional methods, there are also methods of prophylactic treatment with known drugs. Spraying with such solutions is no less effective and not very expensive.
Tomato processing with furatsilinom
Iodine has a high antimicrobial property, so this treatment is quite effective. To obtain a solution, it is necessary to dilute 20 drops of iodine in 10 liters of water. Spray in three periods:
- before flowering,
- with the formation of the first ovaries,
- when tomatoes start picking up color.
The best drug to combat phytophthora is furatsilin.
Preventive treatment is much easier than treating and saving an infected crop, which will lose its keeping quality and will only be suitable for processing. Applying these methods of struggle in your area, you can get a good harvest and healthy tomatoes.
Determined by symptoms
This fungal disease can occur in different ways, depending on the pathogen that provoked it, as well as climatic conditions.
The main signs of the presence of phytophtora are considered to be the following:
- On the foliage of plants, spots of brown or brown color with white edging are formed.
- Bottom sheet plate is covered with whitish spider patina.
- Yellowing, folding, drying and subsequent dying off of the foliage.
- Stems and petioles are covered with brown spots that grow at lightning speed and affect the entire tops of the plant.
- Rotting stems.
- Darkening and then shedding of flowers and ovaries.
- On the fruits of tomatoes manifested in the form of spots, which subsequently provoke softening and rotting of tomatoes.
- Tubers of potatoes are covered with dense spots.
How is transmitted and multiplied
The development of phytophtoras is promoted by several factors, first of all - these are unfavorable weather conditions, namely, sudden changes in temperature and excessive humidity..
Long fog, heavy dew and rain often cause plant contamination. Signs of phytophthora in potatoes Poor-quality planting material or infected soil can also be the source of this disease.
Еще одной причиной возникновения фитофторы является неправильная агротехника, в частности, слишком загущенные посадки и наличие на участке сорных растений.
How to fight
Победить этот недуг достаточно сложно. Timely diagnosis is of great importance, because if you start a disease, the crop can not be saved.
It is possible to treat and prevent the fungus in several ways, what exactly - let's consider.
Fungicides are suitable for controlling late blight; these preparations contain copper, which is effective against the fungus:
- copper sulphate. 20 days after germination, the plants are treated with a 0.02% solution of the drug. The procedure is repeated during the flowering period,
- Bordeaux liquid. Potatoes and tomatoes are treated with a 1% solution of this substance 20 days after the emergence of sprouts, and then during flowering,
- "Ridomil Gold". Used for processing plants from phytophthora before flowering at the rate of 25 g of the drug per 100 square meters. m,
- "Revus". Before the appearance of the first culture buds, they are treated at the rate of 6 ml per 100 sq. M. m,
- "Bravo". A potent fungicide, it is used when there is a threat of late blight epidemic. In such cases, the planting process at the rate of 20 ml of the drug per 100 square meters. m
In order to minimize the likelihood of late blight, the soil should be properly prepared before planting tomatoes and potatoes.
To do this, in the spring it is imperative to clear the area of young and last year's growth and loosen the soil well. After that, the soil must be disinfected, it can be done with the help of chemicals or folk remedies.
Any copper-containing preparations are suitable for disinfecting the soil; treatment should be carried out 2-3 weeks before the intended planting. Experienced gardeners also use wood ash and a weak solution of potassium permanganate for this purpose.
Treatment and Prevention
Unfortunately, 100% protection against phytophthora does not exist, but the implementation of preventive measures before and after planting plants significantly reduces the likelihood of its occurrence.
To prevent the disease using chemical and biological products. It is important to understand that chemistry can not be used during all periods of the growing season, since potent substances can penetrate the fruit and thus make the crop dangerous to health.
As for biopreparations, they can be used at almost any stage of plant development, without fear of adverse effects on the fruit and the environment.
To prevent the occurrence of phytophthora on tomatoes, the following measures should be taken:
- Choose for planting only high-quality, healthy material.
- Disinfect seeds before sowing in a 1% solution of potassium permanganate for 20-30 minutes.
- Plant tomatoes away from potatoes.
- Observe the distance between the bushes, thickened plantings contribute to the emergence and development of the disease.
- Apply phosphorus-potassium fertilizers regularly.
- Do not over saturate the soil with nitrogen.
- Make good drainage that will prevent fluid from stagnating.
- Planted in sunny areas.
- Follow the recommendations of experts regarding crop rotation.
- Mulch the soil.
- Plant plants siderats.
Video: prevention of late blight on tomatoes
Seedlings before planting in the open ground must be sprayed with copper sulfate or Bordeaux mixture. After 14 days the bushes are re-sprayed on the garden bed.
Any chemical preparations for the treatment of tomatoes are allowed to use at least 3 weeks before the intended ripening of the fruit.
Therefore, experienced vegetable growers are more likely to use folk remedies rather than fungicides for the treatment of late blight of tomatoes.
As prevention of phytophthora on potatoes, one should adhere to the following recommendations:
- It is recommended to take only healthy tubers for planting; as a test for the presence of fungus, it is recommended to stand in a warm room with a temperature of 15-18 ° C for 10-15 days before planting. If the potato is infected, putrid spots will appear on it.
- Do not land solanaceous crops in the neighborhood.
- Avoid thickened landings.
- Give preference to varieties resistant to phytophthora.
- To carry out preventive spraying with fungicides or biological preparations every 2 weeks from the very beginning of the growing season.
- Follow the rules of agricultural engineering, namely, loosening the soil and weeding from weeds.
- Apply phosphorus-potassium fertilizers regularly.
Video: how to protect potatoes from late blight
This fungus belongs to incurable diseases, so all the actions of the gardener should be aimed at preventing the development and spread of phytophthora. To do this, carry out the processing of fungicides according to the instructions for use.
On other cultures
Late blight affects not only potatoes and tomatoes, but also other solanaceous. Often, it suffers from pepper and eggplant. For the treatment of these cultures, fungicides are used, just like tomatoes, they are sprayed with solutions of such chemicals.
When growing vegetables in a greenhouse, cucumbers can suffer from the disease, so it is extremely important to control the level of moisture in the room and prevent the development of the disease. To treat cucumbers can only folk remedies aimed at combating late blight. Blight on cucumbers
Late blight is a common dangerous fungal disease. The best way to deal with it is to try to prevent it from appearing in your garden, and for this you should follow the rules of agrotechnology, which are shown to the nightshade.
Symptoms of late blight
The symptoms of late blight on all types of plants are the same: brown and gray-brown spots appear on the stems and leaves, over time the spots become covered with a bloom like mold (these are fungal spores, ready to migrate to other plants).Signs of late blight on the stem of a tomato. White bloom is clearly visible - these are spores of the fungus. Photo: Tomato Casual
The shoots of plants from late blight slacken and die, and the fruits are covered with brown spots and rot from the inside. For example, tomatoes affected by blight cannot be eaten, processed and stored, much less taken from them for subsequent generations.
Late blight can be cured with fungicides (antifungal agents), but it is easier to prevent the spread of the disease. Preventive measures allow you to avoid mass destruction of plants, and therefore the harvest will be independent of the damage to individual plants.
In any case, if signs of phytophtoras appear on individual specimens, then it is necessary to treat it without delay for tomorrow — immediately, dilute the drugs for late blight and process despite being busy.
Phytophthalosis of potatoes - the culprit of many ills in the summer cottage, because late blight is most often transmitted with potatoes, with diseased seed tubers. In potato, not only above-ground organs (stems, foliage and flowers) are subject to phytophthora, but also tubers.
The disease begins to appear on the lower tiers of leaves in July and August. On the leaves appear brown spots of various shapes. The leaves on top become brown, and on the underside of the leaves white bloom appears (spores), the leaves rot and die.Signs of late blight on potato leaves. Photo: usablight.org
Late blight of potato tubers is visible to the naked eye - gray spots appear on the tubers, darkening with time, the tuber rots from the inside. It is impossible to store diseased tubers - healthy specimens may be infected in the storage, besides late blight can persist in seed tubers and history will repeat next year.
Phytophthalosis of potatoes is easier to prevent than to cure, so the following preventive measures are recommended:
- use only healthy tubers for planting, treated before planting with Klubnashit type,
- when preparing the soil in the fall and spring, apply increased doses of potash and phosphate fertilizers,
- spend preventive treatment of plants Bordeaux liquid, and spud potato bushes as high as possible,
- 2 weeks before harvesting potatoes, mow the tops,
- harvest harvest in dry weather,
- Burn or take the tops outside the site, do not put potato tops in the compost.
If, despite precautions, the potato has got phytophtorosis, immediate use of copper-containing fungicides is recommended: Oxy, Ridomil, Kuproksat or ordinary copper oxychloride. When the potato has faded and forms tubers, it is useful to treat the plants with preparations containing phosphates and aluminum, such as Alufit (for more information on anti-phyto fluorine preparations read here).
Late blight of tomatoes (tomatoes)
Tomatoes, more often than other crops, are prone to late blight, especially if potatoes are growing nearby. If the bushes appeared patches of brown-gray color with a greenish border on the edges, and on the back side of the leaves white bloom, then your plants are ill with late blight.
Late blight of tomatoes is dangerous because for a couple of weeks from the powerful healthy plants there are shredded rotting remains of brown color, and the fruits, tomatoes, become stained and rot at the root. Spores of phytophtoras scatter in the direction of the wind, hitting the landing that comes across on the way.Not just a rotten tomato, but a tomato affected by blight. Photo: University of Minnesota Extension
Flowers, peduncles and sepals, as well as fruits, regardless of ripeness, perish. Even if you remove the fruit from the affected plants for ripening, they will rot at home, highlighting spores that infect home saintpaulia and other indoor plants.
In any case, it is easier to prevent phytophthora to tomatoes than heroically treat them by sweat. The main preventive measures against late blight are:
- in regular dressings with potash and phosphate fertilizers (well-fed plants suffer less),
- in maintaining sufficient distances between neighboring bushes of tomatoes and between rows (a spacious landing improves the ventilation of plants, because the phytophthora does not like drafts, it likes air stagnation),
- in the annual rotation of crops (crop rotation),
- moderate watering and frequent loosening (dampness is the best friend of late blight, therefore it is better to dry the tomatoes than to pour),
- regular treatment with Fitosporin-M and its analogues.
Tomato bushes, infected with late blight, treated with systemic fungicides on the principle the sooner the better. The following drugs are recommended: Skor, Gold, Oksihom, Hom and of course Bordeaux mixture. Bordeaux mixture is a cheap and effective method of prevention and treatment of late blight of tomatoes and other crops susceptible to late blight.
Phytophthalosis of strawberry (garden strawberry)
Phytophthalosis of strawberries is manifested in the appearance of brown spots on the leaves, the leaves wither, peduncles and petioles rot and bushes die. The berries of garden strawberries are also prone to late blight, including the ovaries and unripe fruits - the berries become stained, become hard, shrink and die.Symptoms of late blight on a leaf of strawberries: brown spot and rot. Photo: Cornell University
Like other crops, strawberry phytophthora is easier to prevent than to treat: water without pouring, do not thicken the planting, grow strawberry varieties resistant to late blight.
For prevention, strawberries should be treated with copper-containing preparations (Bordeaux liquid, copper sulfate solution, Oxyh, copper oxychloride, etc.), simultaneously with the treatment of other plants on the site. That is how they sprinkled tomatoes and potatoes, and at the same time spray strawberry bushes.
Phytophthalosis of apple
Late blight of an apple tree most often results in the death of a tree. The fact is that phytophtora affects the “basis of bases” - the root neck. The core rots and the bark cracks, opening the way for pests and other diseases.
It is easier to cut a diseased tree and uproot the roots than to cure it, otherwise late blight will also affect other apple trees growing in the neighborhood.
For the prevention of late blight of the apple tree, it is recommended to timely clean and treat the garden bark, kinks and damage to the bark, as well as to collect and remove fallen leaves and carrion from the garden.
Phytophthalosis citrus plants
Citrus plants "pick up" late blight from the sick fruits of tomatoes, peppers and eggplants. Yes, they bought sick tomatoes or brought sick peppers to the kitchen, they began to cut, and the late blight pathogen, together with the draft, moves to homemade lemons, lime and tangerines, where over time it will blow sly.Lemon fruit infected with blight. Photo: Forestry Images
Symptoms of late blight citrus are the same as for tomatoes: oval brown spots appear on the leaves, and white deposits (spores) appear on the back side. In advanced cases, spots appear on the bark, then the plant is likely to wither and die. In this case, the sick shoots are easier to cut with a disinfected sharp knife.
For the treatment of citrus phytophthora drugs are recommended, Albite, Ordan, Profit.
Phytophthora cytosis (violets)
Late blight Senpolius begins for the same reasons as late blight citrus, with sick tomatoes and potato tubers brought home. Dampness and air stagnation add to the likelihood of late blight disease.
Saintpaulia patients with late blight grow poorly, the leaves become sluggish and discolored. It is difficult to treat senpolia for late blight, so diseased plants should be moved to quarantine for several months and treated with copper-containing preparations.Late blight on the stalks of Saintpaulia. Well visible rot and white bloom (spores). Photo: PNW Handbooks
It is easier to prevent late blight to senpoly, using healthy soil, feeding with potash and phosphorus fertilizers, as well as periodically treating plants with copper-containing preparations, especially if phytophthora rampant in the dacha.
Late blight is a dangerous fungal disease that leads to plant death and crop loss. The disease is spread by spores, along with infected seeds, tubers, and soil.
Contrary to popular belief, late blight affects not only potatoes and tomatoes, but also sweet peppers, eggplants, strawberries, buckwheat, apples and other crops.
Late blight is easier to prevent than treats. Treat late blight fungicides, preparations containing copper, phosphorus and aluminum. Fungi do not tolerate copper; therefore, spraying with copper-containing preparations is used. In advanced cases, diseased shoots are removed outside the site (bypassing the compost), and home flowers are closed for quarantine.
I wish to grow healthy plants and get a decent harvest!