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Victor (viktor). Hello. I am a new man, both on the forum and in the internet. Growing persimmon on the street. I looked at your collection and it became clear that you have decent knowledge and good hands. Help to understand one issue with virgin persimmon. After reviewing a lot of sites and forums, I can not figure out how all the same grow a varietal virgin persimmon-seed or sapling. For example varieties -Arley Golden, John Rick, Drok, Keener. Thanks in advance.

Vlad Yuzhny 26 Aug 2012

According to Giro and Russian women. Real Russian women grows in the Krasnodar botanical garden, in unopened form and successfully bear fruit.

The Giro variety, a variety of oriental persimmon, in Japan, takes second place in the gardens after the Fuyu variety, sometimes freezes even on the TAC in winter. The fruits of both varieties are similar in shape, but there are differences - 1. Size. 2. Taste. The difference in fruit weight can reach more than 3 times. After you eat the fruit of Giro, Russian woman, after the first slice, just throw it away and you want to take a hacksaw in your hands so that you will no longer know and hear about the Russian woman. These are my personal observations (not from different sources.). wood from persimmon every year becomes more fragile. Successes. In the photo, the fruits of the Giro, the beginning of August. They will ripen only by November.

Vlad Yuzhny 29 Aug 2012

Vasily, only in one phrase, that the Russian has got 5 points on a 5-point scale for taste, I can
to say that the material you posted above is nothing but a hidden ad.
which were developed in Ukraine and brought from the USA. But if you believe the information, which is printed in the material, then the Japanese Israelis, Spaniards, Italians, residents of the POC and Transcaucasia, do not understand this plant
and grow something incomprehensible in them. Dig in the internet, and find information about what varieties of persimmon are planted around the world. Russian and other varieties of NBS do not appear there.

Vlad, thanks again. I will dig - an interesting topic.

EAH Aug 30, 2012

In the uncovered shape, one Jiro tree grows in the garden center in Krasnodar on the street. Russian, occasionally freezes, grows, there is fruiting.

About the fact that after you eat the fruit of Giro, Russian woman, after the first slice, just throw it away and you want to pick up a hacksaw so that you don’t need to know and hear about the Russian woman ....
Well, too categorically. There is nothing to add.

Basil, just for one phrase, that the Russian has got 5 points on a 5-point scale for taste, I can say that the material that you placed above is nothing but a hidden advertisement for NBS.Sort only those that were developed in Ukraine are listed and brought from the USA. But if you believe the information that is printed in the material, then the Japanese, Israelis, Spaniards, Italians, residents of the POC and Transcaucasia do not understand anything in this plant and grow something incomprehensible in themselves. Dig in the internet and find information on what varieties of persimmon planted plantations throughout Mir.Rossiyanka and other varieties of the NBS do not appear there.

Vladislav, here and there are completely different climatic conditions, there is no need to grow Mount Goverla or Rossiyanka.
There are a lot of varieties of eastern persimmon and they are excellently grown on the KPK in the South Caucasus and to the south. Well, to the north so far there are varieties that “scribbled” from the Internet Vasily Herman.
Again, I believe you, as a professional, should not be so haughty on us fans glancing.
I can make my own contribution, I suppose I didn’t copy the text for all sorts of reasons, therefore I give references
http: //fruits.cveti-. agaet-na-sever /
http: //sagentci.ucoz. dex / khurma / 0-15

Vlad Yuzhny 30 Aug 2012

Alexander, I do not do professional gardening. I’m trying to sort out questions that are in doubt. Russian women have already spoken to Papes at Grapes. Info. So my opinion on the Russian woman’s hybrid is not one. For information about the Giro persimmon in the Garden Center, thanks .It will be possible, I will look. But how this tree survived the winter of 2006 is not clear.? In Tuapse that winter at -18 ° C. Up to 20% of mature trees died, and in Krasnodar it reached -33 ° C. Pro arrogant, and there wasn’t even a thought. About the fragility of persimmon others take photos. people. Adding.Alexander, I know both articles to which you gave links. The authors in both articles sin with inaccuracies of such a nature that even a beginner will understand that the articles are advertisements, and the material is "dug-out" from an Internet from different sources. Example "of creativity "The author from the site that you mentioned: -". A persimmon koreok Heokume ". The name of the grade 2 errors. And from the same opus: - Fruits are spherical or conical, 2-5 cm in diameter, weighing up to 200 g, "Read Chentsova's abstract about persimmon, there is information under the authorship of Omarov, Nizharidz. These are scientists who have devoted to the study of this interesting culture many years of their life. The experimental plot of persimmon 5 acres of Chentsova exists in the Krasnodar botsad to this day.

Reviews and comments: 2

Dear gardeners, tell me: what plant can be planted on a persimmon tree (it grows in my greenhouse)? She grew from semen. At first, she grew up in the garden for five years, froze in the winter, and in the spring branches grew again from the ground, then everything repeated. I planted it in a greenhouse, the tree survived the winter. The height was 2 m, the leaves all showered. In the spring, the trunk came to life again and so grew for three years. But the fruit was not even bloomed. Maybe someone came across this - tell me what to instill?

Persimmon is the birthplace of China, from where it spread to East Asia, then it was grown in Japan. And only at the end of the 19th century the whole world learned about persimmon.
Persimmon has about 500 varieties. Most of them grow in a subtropical climate. Therefore, it tolerates cold. The main species known to us are tart Caucasian, impatient Japanese, and sweet chocolate, or blood orange.
Trying to grow these varieties, especially from the stone, as some try, is absolutely hopeless. Just like me, still in my early years, chasing exotic things, I tried to grow persimmon from seeds - they sprouted beautifully, even grew and hibernated in the ground, but in the spring it was found that the seedlings froze to the root collar, in the spring they somehow grew, and then disappeared irrevocably for a couple of years.

But I wanted to grow thermophilic varieties of persimmon in Donetsk. Now there are quite cold-resistant forms, for example, some varieties and hybrids of the Virginia persimmon. For example, the Russian woman variety - there is evidence that it is able to transfer frosts to -ZT.
It is a frost-resistant shrub of small sizes. Sprawling branches, flattened fruits. The flesh is medium hard, annual fruiting. The fruit tastes sweet, moderate astringency. Maturation occurs by the end of November. With one tree you can get a crop of up to 80 kg.
It is this class that we recommend to give preference. But it is still better to be safe and provide shelter for the winter. In this case, simply sprinkle the persimmon shoots for the winter with earth like grapes should not be.

It will be too damp - the wood will shrivel. Therefore, it is better to plant it in a pit about a meter deep, in which it will be possible to cover the plant with straw and straw completely, bending its shoots down. Some enthusiasts in ditches of this kind, but a depth of 2 m, grow even such subtropical plants as laurel, pomegranate, figs and even lemons.

How to grow persimmon from the stone

The first step is to germinate, our bones obtained from fresh persimmon. To do this, they need to be rinsed under water and put on 1-2 centimeters in a pot with wet soil. You can also do this with cotton wool. To do this, put persimmon seeds in wet cotton wool, wrap it in cellophane film and put it in a warm place, on the battery, if it is winter. Sometimes cellophane needs to be opened and moistened with cotton so that everything does not dry out and not become moldy. It is also advisable to keep the pot with the seed planted in a warm place and can be covered with foil. Sometimes cellophane to open, and the earth to pour on a half centimeter. So that you know that a persimmon is thermophilic, it always needs a lot of light and heat, so that you should not keep it in the shade and in drafts.

Seeds rise in 10-15 days. If there is no result, then no longer hold, new seeds and repeat the procedure. If a sprout appeared, the cellophane can and should be removed. Seeds of cotton wool if germinated, then should be transplanted into the pot. If at the end of the sprout there remains a stone of persimmon and it does not want to fall off itself for several days (its flaps are strongly clamped), then it should be carefully removed by itself, otherwise the plant will disappear. This can be done with a knife, scissors or needle. If it has become very boring to our tree, then we can spray it with warm water, wrap it in a bag and put it in a warm place all night. In the morning the bone will be parted and very easily removed.

Persimmon sprouts grow very quickly, so if several seeds have sprouted, then every little future of the tree should be transplanted into a separate spacious pot. The root system of this fruit has a lot of activity and if there is not enough space, the sprout will wither. A lack of substrate will lead to poor growth of the young tree and yellowing of the leaves. So, do not save on a good pot and earth, if you want to get a healthy and fast-growing tree.

Tree care

A young tree in a pot in the summer should be taught to the sun little by little, otherwise the leaves can get burned and dry. To do this, a thermophilic plant should be pritiny a little in the first days, but this should be done by exposing it to the balcony, window sill, or to the yard. During the whole growing season of persimmon, it should be fed alternately with mineral and organic fertilizers twice a month.

With the onset of autumn in October-November, the tree should be transferred to a room with a temperature of +7 to +30 ° C, it is possible in the cellar, but it is not desirable, there will be no light. To do this, you need to lay a layer of wet sawdust on the ground and systematically spray or pour the soil so that it does not dry out.

With the onset of March, it is necessary to transplant a tree into a more spacious pot with new soil. Good water and put on a bright place.

Next, it is time to make the formation of young seedlings in small trees. To do this, at the level of 0.4-0.5 meters, you should make a clothespin for branching the tree. Leaving 2-3 apical shoots wait until they grow 30-40 cm, after which they pinch to form branches of the second order. Then again 2-3 leaves are left, and so on, a round-shaped persimmon tree, 1.5 meters high, is grown. The first flowers can be seen only in the third or fourth year.

Already grown persimmon tree is transplanted with the arrival of spring in the garden in a bright and sheltered place. It should continue to be systematically and abundantly watered (but not poured) and spray the leaves. The blooming of persimmon, as a rule, happens in June. During the active growing season, the tree is fed with mineral fertilizers twice a month with a minimum composition of nitrogen.

In winter, persimmon is kept in coolness (on average, -5 degrees, but not colder than 10, otherwise long-term work will disappear). Watering should be periodically water at room temperature, and the leaves spray. But it is necessary to water without fanaticism, otherwise the plant will wither. Persimmon fruits are not afraid of the cold; it even benefits them, as the content of tannins decreases.

When does a tree start to bear fruit?

3-4 years after vaccination, the tree begins to bear fruit. If you grow a persimmon from the seed of the fruit, then you have to wait 5 to 7 years. If the tree is in a dry permanent room “climate”, then this period should be increased by another one or two years.
You need to feed the plant, like everyone else: phosphorus, sodium, potassium and trace elements from a well-balanced fertilizer or compost extraction.

Persimmon varieties

  1. Jiro (Jiro) - this sweet variety of persimmon (up to 13% sugar) has flat-round fruits, the grooves divide them into four parts from top to bottom. You can eat even in unripe form.
  • Hachia is a large, self-pollinating variety with a weight of up to 300 grams. It is also called "bull's heart." These fruits have a conical shape with a bright red color. Have a wonderful taste only after full ripening, as the sugar in them reaches 18%.
  • Hiakume (Hayakume) - or the Kinglet, also a self-pollinating persimmon variety, is strong-growing. Fruits of average weight - 250 grams, round. This variety is easy to distinguish, since all fruits on the top have concentric circles. Fruits are considered ripe and edible when they turn brown. Sugar up to 17%.
  • Zenjimaru (Zenjimaru) or chocolate peregrine. This self-pollinating variety is characterized by small fruits up to 100 g and dark orange outside and a chocolate shade of pulp. The taste is very pleasant. Have a lot of seeds - 5-8 pieces. You can even eat them immature - still hard. Sugar content up to 15%.
  • Tamopan (Tamopan) is the largest variety - up to 550 grams. Also self-pollinating and strong-growing. It has a constriction (cap) on top. Edible only after full ripening.

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    Myths about homemade persimmon

    Numerous sources of literature on indoor gardening are sometimes unknown why novice gardeners who want to grow it at home, receive the fruits, as if they were especially intimidated by all sorts of creepy facts from the biography of a plant named persimmon. A tree at home will not bear fruit - they write alone. Even getting a sprout from a sunflower seed will be a daunting task - others echo.

    Persimmon easily grows at home, even bears fruit, you need to know only the main points of its agricultural technology.

    Video about growing persimmon

    • Seeds are very difficult to germinate. Requires special handling before planting. You can often find lengthy instructions for distilling the bones, stratification, disinfection and other pre-sowing rituals. However, none of this is required, especially if you are planting the bones right from the fruit you have just eaten. Just sprinkle lightly with earth, water regularly. in a few days - maximum, in two weeks you will see powerful sprouts stretching towards the light. It is known that seed germination quickly falls, just like citrus. If you received a seed that was separated from the pulp of the fetus a few weeks ago, then it is recommended to keep them in a growth stimulant solution, such as epine, root, heteroauxin.
    • Fertilizers, fertilizers are simply necessary for successful home cultivation. Tomatoes differ from other cultivated plants only in that they are more demanding on the lightness of the soil. Heavy soil tolerates poorly. The question of fertilizers should also be treated very carefully. Persimmon is among the plants that normally feel on poor soils, it is better to underfeed it than to overfeed with mineral and especially organic fertilizers.
    • Life is tropical, so care requires special. Provide her year-round tropics, then you will harvest. In fact, everything is somewhat different. Our ward is able to tolerate cold up to -20 ° C, and the virgin form makes frost -40 ° C. The tree needs a cold winter period. Only then does she fructify at home.

    Persimmon photography

    Growing persimmon at home the first years of life

    Prepare for seed small pots or planting boxes with a light substrate consisting equally of meadow humus, peat and calcined gray river sand. There are doubts about the quality of peat or humus regarding the presence of parasites - disinfect the soil over a slow fire in an iron enameled bucket, adding a liter of water to it. Enrich the sterile soil with a solution of effective microorganisms - your substrate is now safe, but completely devoid of beneficial bacteria, assimilating the chemical elements with fertilizers for the roots.

    Proper farming starts with planting.

    We sow the seeds, water them, avoiding the dirt-like state of the soil. We put where it is warm, no drafts. After 10-16 days, the seeds will turn on. Rearranging them closer to the sun, on the windowsills. Sometimes the shell of the seeds refuses to fall away from the leaves, preventing their further growth. Pick it off with a knife, or, wrapping it with wet gauze, leave it for some time. Having swelled up, she will disappear herself.

    Photos of young persimmon trees

    With good humidity and high temperature, our seedlings are actively growing. We are waiting for a couple of weeks, producing regular watering, after which we sprout sprouts in separate pots, if you have chosen a seedling box for sowing seeds. Or leave the strongest of them growing for each seed pot.

    A few words about the transplant

    The sapling of the first year of growth actively forms the root system and wood. The first couple of months the volume of the planting pot is enough to fill the root network. Then we change to a more voluminous container. But again, as in the case of citrus, you can not increase the diameter of the pot very quickly.

    Чтобы хурма приносила урожай дома, нельзя ей многого позволять. Предоставляя все условия для быстрого роста, мы избаловываем дерево, превращая его в акселерат, который никогда не порадует вас даже цветением.

    Снабжать нас плодами не входит в планы растения, если оно растёт дома, в ограниченном пространстве. Whatever the large pots, it does not replace the roots of the tree of natural conditions. In addition, flat dry air, light, and, most importantly, temperature conditions are far from desired. Our goal is not to create all the necessary conditions for flowering with fruiting, but to make the tree bear fruit. However, this does not mean that the persimmon in the apartment should be tortured by hunger, cramping and dryness. It is necessary to keep a balance between stressful and favorable conditions. This is the agro-technology of moderate restraint, which makes tall tropical and subtropical trees produce crops in cramped apartment conditions.

    Photo preparation for a persimmon transplant

    So, with each transplant, we increase the diameter of the pot by 3-4 centimeters. The first year of life, you can replant the plant twice due to strong growth. Subsequently, we transplant every six months. Starting from the third year of life, we reduce this to an annual transplant. From the age of five, we replace pots with a large volume in a year.

    Persimmon loves light, but protect it from the sun.

    Now about the light mode. It is known that our ward loves the sun. Most often, in order to satisfy this need, we put trees on the balconies, or take them out to the gardens. But do not overdo it. A sharp increase in daily illumination after indoor dispersion of ultraviolet radiation through window panes can adversely affect the health of the plant and lead to leaf burns. It is better to teach gradually.

    First, we move the persimmon closer to the light in the evening, when the sun is not so strong, ultraviolet rays are scattered in the atmosphere. Or is it best to take the tree to fresh air during cloudy days. then the best adaptation to natural conditions will occur.

    Secondly, the first few days, if the weather is fine, create shading for the plants. Stretch a frosted canvas or thick non-woven covering material on the south side.

    Photos of persimmon transplant

    Thirdly. Due to the active draining of greenery by the wind, trees begin to consume much more water. Increase irrigation doses, drying the soil is unacceptable.

    We water, we fertilize - do not overdo it!

    Immediately it should be said, homemade persimmon does not like a lot of dressings, responding to them with weak growth and a painful condition.

    Limited amounts of soil do not allow a large development of a large root system. A large root system cannot feed a large green mass of wood. Means and food persimmon at home requires significantly less than its free-standing fellows. Where will the tree take up the nitrogen it takes from top dressing, if it is for the most part required to increase green mass to stimulate growth?

    Our reverse task is to limit the growth of the tree if possible. Non-trace elements will lead to an overdose inside the persimmon tissue. And this makes the tree frail, painful. An overfed tree is no better than an underfed tree. Phosphorus is also required by the tree, for the most part, for flowering, fruit set-up, as well as potassium is necessary for the aging of the bark and roots.

    However, this does not mean that we should stop fertilizing our persimmon at all. Top dressing is necessary, but much in more moderate quantities. It is better to focus on trace elements. There is a mass of universal inorganic complexes for indoor flowering plants. They are also well suited for persimmon. Trace elements help to strengthen the immunity of plants, which is extremely useful, because persimmon constantly suffers from stress at home. It should be said that the provision of micronutrients greatly affect whether your subtropical pet will bear fruit.

    Fertilize regularly, twice a month, but in small doses.

    Also, persimmon dislikes organic fertilizers. Accustomed under natural conditions to the poor rocky soils of the mountain slopes, she feels uncomfortable on manured chernozems. It is better to water it with complexes of humic acids and effective microorganisms. They improve the ecology of the soil inside the pots, help the mineral supplements to better absorb the roots.

    And of course, we remember that in no case should fertilize on dry land. Forget about this rule, if you set yourself the goal to burn persimmon roots

    In the photo persimmon

    How to make a crop to produce a crop

    Waiting for the fourth-fifth leaflet, pinching sprouts. This provokes active growth of lateral shoots. When they also grow to 4-5 sheets, pinch them. Our goal is to prevent the tree from growing, leaving it compact. Soon we will have a spherical low tree. It is only necessary to periodically pinch the ends of its branches.

    To force a persimmon to plant fruit buds, the method of ringing individual branches is also used. Ringing the barrel is better not to use - it is quite a risky technique.

    1. we choose any strong branch
    2. remove the bark ring at its base with a sharp knife perpendicular to the direction of growth
    3. overturn and graft this ring in place of the cut.
    4. we wrap with tape or film to avoid moisture loss from the place of cut-inoculation.
    5. after some time a ring of new bark should form here. This means that the vaccine was successful.
    6. the growth of such a branch is weakened, which automatically gives a signal to actively plant fruit buds, to bloom.

    We can also graft cuttings taken from room fruiting persimmon to separate parts of the tree. Such vaccinations will be more likely to bloom, to tie fruit.

    Persimmon Graft Photography

    1. We find a suitable cutting, in a wet environment we deliver it home.
    2. Use a sharp knife to cut the cutting from the bottom on both sides with a peg, holding the blade away from you.
    3. Put it in water with sugar
    4. The vaccination site defines a strong vertical branch. We prune neighboring branches so that food goes to the site of vaccination.
    5. With a sharp saw we cut it horizontally. Cut a knife across the diameter of the stumps to a depth equal to the length of the cutting peg.
    6. We put the cutting in the incision.
    7. Well, all wrapped with a plaster, cloth or tape.
    8. We put a plastic bag on the stalk, tied up below the graft on the branch. This is to avoid moisture loss, until the cambium tissue has contracted between the stock and the graft.
    9. As soon as the cutting went into growth, it means that the graft was successful.

    Winter storage

    It requires a cool, even cold wintering. Starting in mid-autumn, we reduce watering, completely stop feeding. The leaves will begin to turn yellow and fall off. If your tree is already fruiting, then most likely the fruit will hang on the plant for a long time after the complete leaf fall.

    Video about persimmon

    We harvest, we send a plant to the cool room. You can choose the place of the winter storage cellar, our little tree, the light without foliage in the winter to anything. Of course, some species of this representative of the ebony family withstand cooling and up to -30-40 ° C, but most often we grow seeds, taken from the Caucasian varieties. Their winter hardiness is usually limited to -15 ° C. You can choose a winter apartment for our green pet, unheated canopy or a cool balcony, if you are sure that there will always be above these temperatures. But it is better to be safe - to provide the tree with conditions close to 0 + 5 ° C.

    From time to time we ventilate the room with a wintering bush, preventing the development of soil, woody mold. Also monitor the soil moisture. It is impossible to allow both excessive dryness and excessive waterlogging. Two small watering during the winter - the most optimum. Good wintering will contribute to the budding of fruit buds next summer. The tree will regularly delight you with a harvest.

    Cold-resistant persimmon species

    Persimmon virginor virginiana (D. virginiana) is from the eastern United States. It grows as a deciduous tree with large dense oval leaves with a pointed tip. It has deep taproot roots. In most parts, the plant is dioecious, although monoecious trees are also found. Dicate flowers pollinated by wind and insects. A distinctive feature of this type of persimmon is its frost resistance. It withstands up to –30 ° С. This look is very important for gardening since it is usually used as a stock.

    Caucasian Persimmon (D. lotus), or ordinary, grows in nature in the Eurasian subtropics. In particular, it is found in the Crimea and on the coast of the Caucasus. It is a deciduous tree up to 27 m. The flowers are greenish, small, appear in June. Fruits are small, only about 2 cm in diameter, yellow in color. They ripen in late autumn, in late October - early November. At first they are tart, but after frosts, astringency decreases. Frost resistance up to –20 ° С.

    Kaki (D. kaki) is a species of Asian origin. This type gives the largest fruits of excellent taste, so it is widely cultivated. The tree looks like an apple tree. Flowers are found in 3 types - male, female, mixed. Most often these are monoecious plants with dioecious flowers, but sometimes dioecious ones are also found. Pollination occurs with the help of insects. Seedless fruits from female flowers can develop without fertilization, using parthenogenesis. Such fruits are called parthenocarpic. This species is not as frost-resistant as Virginian persimmon, and can withstand decreases only to –16 ° С.

    On the basis of the eastern persimmon created many varieties that are combined into groups. So, the group under the name of the King is known.

    The persimmon called Sharon is very popular now. In fact, this is the commercial name of persimmon, fruit ripening which occurs in the presence of carbon monoxide, or alcohol. Due to this, the amount of tannins in fruits is reduced, therefore their taste is more delicate.

    What you need to know when growing persimmon

    1. The first thing to consider is the right choice of variety! Seedlings are better to choose those that are grafted on a virgin persimmon, or, as it is also called, virgin one. This is due to the peculiarities of the root system of the species; it is pivotal and goes deep into the soil. Outwardly, such a root resembles carrots, the color of the roots is dark, almost black.

    2. The second important point is the right choice of landing site. For persimmon microclimate is important plot. The place is best chosen at the southern wall of the house, protected from the wind and at the same time sunny. Do not plant persimmon in lowlands and frost pits, in places open to the east and north wind. As for the soil, the persimmon to them is undemanding.

    Externally, the persimmon root resembles carrots, the color of the roots is dark, almost black.

    root persimmon in the form of carrots

    young persimmon seedling

    persimmon shelter for the winter


    Landing time. In the southern regions and in Transcarpathia, landing is done in the fall or spring. But in the east and north of the country is better to plant seedlings in the spring. If the seedlings are bought in the fall, then it is better to perederzhat them in a cool place until spring.

    Landing. Prepare a hole about 50 × 50 × 50 cm in size, the size will depend on the size of the seedling. At the bottom of the pit pour a layer of fertile land.

    Spill it with a solution of a conqueror, such as Kornevin. Be sure to make an earthen mound. Distribute the roots carefully so that they do not bend, and all were directed downwards. Pour the seedling with earth, seal the landing. Spill water again with the coagulator. The root neck should be at ground level or recessed by 4–6 cm. Mulch the planting circle.

    Further care is periodic watering and weeding.

    Preparation of seedlings for the winter. In the first 3-4 years young saplings will require shelter for the winter. With the onset of low temperatures, the seedling needs to be covered with a mound of earth so that the grafting site is closed. As the temperature decreases, continue to cover: the trunk can be tied with agrofiber or paper, then a frame air-dry cover can be made - a “tent” of twigs, corn stalks, etc.

    In the first 3-4 years young saplings will require shelter for the winter.

    Mature trees overwinter without shelter. Autumn stitching is recommended.

    Fertilizers. When planting and then another couple of years, fertilizer will not be required. Is that at the end of the summer, for better aging of the shoots, use potash fertilizers. Further, the introduction of complex fertilizers is welcome, especially during the period of entry into fruiting.

    Harvest The first harvest can be seen on the 3-4th year after planting the seedling. At first there will be few fruits, but over time persimmon produces very rich harvests. Especially if a number of plants grow pollinators.

    Ripening persimmon in early October. Beautiful orange or yellow fruits adorn the garden. Remove them slightly immature. Then dispense within 10-15 or more days. Fully ripened fruits, when pressed, are slightly soft, in taste, astringency decreases, and sweetness increases. If you leave the fruit on the tree before the onset of light frost, then their taste will significantly improve by reducing the tartness of the fruit.

    Varieties for open ground

    In garden practice, using numerous varieties that are the result of long breeding work.

    Meder - this variety is valued for its high resistance to frost, combined with good taste, as well as self-fertility. It originates from virgin persimmon, hence frost resistance. Even when growing a single tree, good yields can be obtained; pollinators are not required. Bright yellow-orange fruits ripen in October. On average, weigh about 60 grams, the flesh is pitted. After collecting them, they need to be dosed for about 15 days, after which the astringency disappears and the aroma appears. The variety can withstand up to –30 ° С.

    Russian woman - variety of Ukrainian breeding, bred in Nikitsky Botanical Garden from crossing persimmon virginsky and oriental. From the first he inherited excellent frost resistance, and from the second - large sizes and wonderful taste. This variety is also self-fertile, i.e. it does not require planting of pollinating plants. Fruits weigh about 100 g, some up to 125 g, they are bright yellow-orange with a thick skin that is covered with a waxy coating. Ripe fruits are sweet and fragrant, ripen in October. Even 30-degree frost is not terrible for this variety. In addition, the Rossiyanka skoroplodnaya, already 3-year-old seedlings yield a crop. All these qualities make this variety, perhaps, the most beloved of our gardeners. Only young seedlings require shelter for the winter.

    God's gift - skoroplodny and samoplodny grade of the Ukrainian selection. The tree is compact, up to 3 m high. The fruits are bright, yellow, weighing 150-180 g, of removable maturity reach the beginning of October. Frost resistance is inferior to the Russian, but can withstand to –27 ° С.